For today’s piece, I’ve decided to take you through my process for painting one of my Pilgrim City terrain pieces which I got right here from GameMatsDotCom.
These are some great, characterful terrain pieces that will look great on your tabletop, and they also take paint very well.
This is the Pilgrim City Ruin piece, which has been 3D printed in a good, neutral “sprue gray” color, if you will. This is a three-piece structure, because much of the Pilgrim City terrain is modular. However, for my purposes and how I plan to use the piece, I decided to glue the layers together as a first step. Also, before painting a 3D printed piece, just like you’d clean up seams and flash on a miniature, just be sure to clean up any excess bits of the printing filament that might hamper your painting.
Now, for my color scheme on this building, I’ve decided to go with a “war-torn desert city” look. So, neutral colors are the focus. For this particular model, I’ll be using the Krylon and Rustoleum “camoflage” line of spray paints to put on the primer and undercoat, specifically the dark brown and beige colors. You can pretty much find these at any big-box or downtown hardware store for pretty cheap.
Here’s the piece spray-coated with the dark brown camoflage spray paint. Just like any other model, be sure as you’re spray-coating that you turn it upside-down, sideways and every other way to ensure you get the paint into all of the nooks and crannies. This is your primer coat, so you don’t want any gray showing through. However, as you can see, the primer has adhered to the surface without sacrificing any detail.
Here’s the model with the beige undercoat sprayed on. So, since I’m going for a sort of worn-out, war-ravaged look for this building, when I sprayed the beige undercoat on here, I wasn’t going for full coverage. Basically I just sprayed the model in spots and zig-zags until I was satisfied with how it looked, allowing the brown to show throug
And now we’re ready for the final stage, which is details and finishing. First of all, the bits that looked like they could be machinery, vents, etc., I painted with Leadbelcher and then washed with Agrax Earthshade. The wires running around the building I chose to be the only spot colors (I just thought that black wouldn’t work as well), and I kept them consistently either red or yellow throughout. For the door, I painted it with Dark Reaper, and then washed it with Nuln Oil.
After the details were all painted in, I give the whole building a good drybrush of a plain white (this was literally just white paint squeezed from a tube of acrylics I got at my local craft store). The big thing I wanted to do with the drybrushing was to use it to highlight the edges of the building, as well as the “damage” details like the exposed brick and artillery pock marks. I just went over it multiple times, lightly, until I was happy with the effect.
Peter Kuebeck is a writer, gamer and award-winning mini-painter living in the Midwest. He wages a constant battle against the ever-growing tide of unpainted minis in his basement, and occasionally GMs role-playing game sessions with friends. Catch his hobby shenanigans on Twitter at @popculturecube